I have to keep pushing it in for short periods of time while keeping the idle speed up until it warms up a little. Mine has a prime solenoid that is activated by pushing in on the key when cranking. It does sound like it might be a cold start problem. Plus your motor is probably different than mine. but your description doesn't sound like any of the problems I have had. I have repaired many problems over the years. I have a 1990 75hp mercury but it is a 3 cyl with oil injection. Just trying to figure out a few little things i can do to improve it. Any ideas what i should take a look at on the motor to get it to fire up better at the beginning of each trip? Does it sound like a carburetor issue, or something else? I'm not looking to rebuild the whole motor, as i don't have the money for something like that. Now i know this motor hasn't always been taken care of or serviced the way that it should have been, but now that i have it i'm trying to get it running better and take care of it a little better. But it doesn't matter if it's early Spring, or middle of the Summer, it ALWAYS takes several minutes to get it fired up at the beginning of each trip. I use a kicker for trolling, and if i decide to pick up and move, i can then turn the key (to the big motor) once and have it fire right up every time. Then for one reason or another, it will start up and stay running without problems, even on idle. It cranks and acts like it wants to start, but it will take many turns of the key before it actually fires up (sometimes it will start up but only stay running for a few seconds). Use fresh gasoline if you can.Every time i take this boat out, the same thing happens when trying to start this motor (Mercury 75hp). If you have a separate portable fuel tank, try connecting that and see if the motor will run. See if you notice any contamination or water in the fuel when you drain them, as that might be an important clue. Hopefully, you have spare fuel filters onboard, so changing them shouldn’t be a big deal. If it starts briefly and runs off of the starting fluid, then you know with certainty that the problem is with your fuel system.Īt this point, it’s time to start double and triple-checking the fuel lines, primer bulb, and filters. You want it to go more or less straight into the manifold. Take the cowling off of the motor and spray a short blast of fluid into the air intake. If you’ve inspected everything and are confident that the engine isn’t flooded, the sure-fire way to narrow down your troubleshooting is to get a can of starting fluid. Some motors are very susceptible to flooding, while it happens to others very rarely. Give it a few tries, and if it doesn’t start, then wait ten minutes or so and try again. The cure to getting a flooded motor to start is to close the choke and open the throttle to half or more while starting the engine. It usually results from repeated starting attempts with the choke or primer out. A flooded engine has too much gas in the system, and not enough of it is atomizing to combust. It’s also worth noting that the engine might be flooded. If you have a fuel water separator with a sight bowl, check for contamination. Check all fuel line connections and hose clamps. Listen for unusually air sucking sounds as you squeeze. Squeeze the primer bulb and make sure fuel is flowing. Is there fuel in the tank? Is the fuel line in okay shape? Do you have a fuel shut-off valve, and if so, is it open? Even a small air leak can lead to starting problems, especially if your motor is fuel injected. Check the fuel system step by step, from the tank to the motor. Always start troubleshooting with the simplest items first. If the engine turns over or cranks like it always has, then chances are you are looking at a fuel problem.
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